Which Vegan Ingredient is Best for Antiaging?
Gone are the days of waiting until later in life to care about fine lines and wrinkles.
Beauty gurus and skin fanatics alike are looking for any product that will regenerate skin cells and hydrate skin. Retinols have long been the go-to, as this vitamin A derivative is known to smooth skin, even skin tone, and reduce fine lines, wrinkles and hyperpigmentation.
But it also can cause irritation for those with sensitive skin, so it is not a viable option for many looking to utilize its benefits.
That’s where bakuchiol comes in. This natural, vegan ingredient is making waves in the skincare game as the next best remedy for aging skin.
Read on to learn more about bakuchiol, and why you should add this ingredient to your rotation ASAP.
Bakuchiol 101
Bakuchiol (pronounced ba-koo-heel) is an all-natural, vegan plant extract born of the babchi, psoralea corylifolia, plant. It is extracted from the leaves and seeds of this plant.
Babchi is native to India and Sri Lanka, and has commonly been used in Indian Ayurvedic and Chinese medicines, as well as in Tamil Siddha practices.
Like with retinol, bakuchiol is a skin hydrator. It also comes with anti-inflammatory and antibacterial properties that help to soothe skin, and is also an acne fighter.
Unlike retinol, however, bakuchiol does not cause skin upset, dryness, or stinging for those with sensitive skin.
Bakuchiol is available in oils, creams and serums, and its color resembles the lilac shade of the babchi plant it is derived from.
Why is bakuchiol good for skin?
Bakuchiol is a vegan alternative to a potentially irritating retinol.
A 2019 study found that there was no difference in treating wrinkles or hyperpigmentation between bakuchiol and retinol, save for the fact that retinol users experienced more skin irritation.
This all-natural ingredient does the work of retinol without any of its downsides. It targets fine lines and uneven skin tones, and those with sensitive skin, rosacea or eczema don’t have to worry about skin irritation.
Dr. Rachel Nazarian, a N.Y.C.-based dermatologist, said this about bakuchiol: "Much like a retinol, bakuchiol triggers the genetic pathway in skin cells to create several types of collagen that are useful in skin health and anti-aging."
This enhanced collagen production is what helps your skin fight wrinkles and other signs of aging.
In addition to increased collagen production, bakuchiol provides these key benefits:
Suitable for all skin types
Bakuchiol is a gentle ingredient, so it is gentle on the face. Those with sensitive skin should not worry about its negative effects, and there is not yet evidence that pregnant women should avoid it.
Helps soothe skin
The factor that boosts collagen production is also what improves cell turnover and healthy cell regeneration, effectively refreshing any inflamed features on the skin.
Reduces appearance of fine lines
Bakuchiol plumps the skin, which reduces the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles and creates a smoother complexion.
Evens skin tone
This plant can penetrate deep in the skin to lessen the appearance of hyperpigmentation or dark spots. Evidence shows that bakuchiol suppresses the hormone responsible for producing melanin, effectively limiting dark spot formation.
Doesn’t cause sun sensitivity
Other ingredients with these benefits can cause skin sensitivity to the sun, but bakuchiol is one that does not. That being said, it’s always important to wear a daily SPF to protect your skin against damaging rays.
Reduces acne
This study shows that topically applied bakuchiol has the ability to reduce the number of inflammatory lesions and lessen the discoloration left from healed acne spots. Researchers believe bakuchiol will be a promising acne fighter, especially for skin of color.
Protects from free radicals
Its antioxidant powers protect the skin from the damaging free radicals that steal electrons from the natural fat in your skin, effectively preventing oxidative degradation. The oxidation of cells is what leads to skin cell death and the aging appearance of skin.
Are there side effects from using bakuchiol?
Bakuchiol, despite being in use for centuries, is still a relatively new ingredient in the skincare world.
There are no studies that reflect any negative side effects, so those looking for a natural way to boost collagen production, plump the face and reduce fine lines and wrinkles have their answer.
Deputy chief Executive Officer of the British Association of Dermatologists Nina Goad says this on the effects and future of bakuchiol: “Bakuchiol is the sort of ingredient that ticks a lot of boxes for consumers and brands, and I wouldn’t be surprised to see it heavily marketed in the future. It appears to have minimal side-effects compared to alternatives, and seems to be effective.”
With no known negative side effects, you can expect to see skincare products with bakuchiol lining more and more shelves.
What is the difference between retinol and bakuchiol?
Bakuchiol is making waves as the natural alternative to retinol.
Retinol is a weaker version of retinoids, the prescription-only compound that addresses wrinkles and fine lines. Retinols are available over the counter.
Bakuchiol, from the babchi plant, has many of the retinol-like benefits without the setbacks.
Retinol plumps skin and reduces fine lines and wrinkles, effectively counteracting the look of aging skin. This 2014 study shows that bakuchiol is just as effective in these skin-saving aspects, and can be considered a natural anti-aging, retinol-like ingredient.
Retinol is commonly known to cause irritation on the skin, especially if exposed to sunlight. The sun is known to break down all forms of Vitamin A and make the product less effective. Those using retinol are urged to either avoid the sun or to wear a strong enough SPF to properly protect the skin. Due to its risks associated with sun exposure, it is recommended that retinol is only applied at night.
Because bakuchiol does not come with the same sun exposure risks as retinol, it can be applied both morning and night if desired. Its properties do not break down in the sun, and is also stable in UV light.
Goad had this to say about making the switch to bakuchiol: “If reducing wrinkles is a major concern, don’t necessarily rush to switch from retinol immediately. Researchers are optimistic but there is more research to be done. It’s also worth considering that even the most effective anti-wrinkle ingredients can only do so much. Although you can’t prevent skin aging entirely, you can try to avoid excessive exposure to environmental factors that increase it, particularly UV exposure and smoking.”
Tyler Hollmig, MD, a board-certified dermatologist and the director of laser and cosmetic dermatology at the University of Texas at Austin Dell Medical School says this on bakuchiol: “While more studies are needed, I suspect that bakuchiol may improve skin tone and texture in a similar fashion to over-the-counter retinoids.”
If you’re looking to save your skin from the harsher retinols, definitely consider making the switch to the natural and vegan bakuchiol.
Can you mix bakuchiol with other skincare ingredients?
If you’ve used a retinol before, you know there are rules to follow with its application: they shouldn’t be mixed with any acids, and you should avoid sun exposure.
Bakuchiol has no such stipulations.
Bakuchiol is an all-natural, vegan ingredient, which means it is safe to be used with most other ingredients. There is no data that indicates that it reacts negatively with any other actives.
It is a hydrator, so it works well with other hydrators such as squalane and PHAs, the chemical exfoliants that hydrate skin. It is also a light ingredient, so it can be layered with all other products in your skincare regimen.
As always when trying new ingredients, complete a patch test before layering it over your face.
Can you mix bakuchiol with other skincare ingredients?
If you’ve used a retinol before, you know there are rules to follow with its application: they shouldn’t be mixed with any acids, and you should avoid sun exposure.
Bakuchiol has no such stipulations.
Bakuchiol is an all-natural, vegan ingredient, which means it is safe to be used with most other ingredients. There is no data that indicates that it reacts negatively with any other actives.
It is a hydrator, so it works well with other hydrators such as squalane and PHAs, the chemical exfoliants that hydrate skin. It is also a light ingredient, so it can be layered with all other products in your skincare regimen.
As always when trying new ingredients, complete a patch test before layering it over your face.
Is bakuchiol safe during pregnancy?
Bakuchiol’s positive skin effects are often compared to those when using a retinol, but there is one question on many minds: can pregnant women use it?
Pregnant women are advised against using retinols and retinoids, including retinoic acid and Retin-A, as studies have shown that taking vitamin A in high doses whilst pregnant can be harmful for the unborn child. Taking retinoids orally has been known to cause birth defects.
Applying retinoids topically has not been shown to cause problems during pregnancy or while breastfeeding, but out of caution doctors do recommend to avoid it.
There are no such hesitations for bakuchiol.
Dr. Narazian has this to say on using bakuchiol during pregnancy: "There is not enough evidence to encourage pregnant women to use it, [but] its botanical etiology may make it a safer option."
There are few studies on its impact on those who are pregnant or breastfeeding. It is a safer option when compared to using a retinol, but if you are still unsure about its long term impacts, consider waiting for more studies on bakuchiol’s effects on pregnant women to be published before trying the ingredient.